18 April 2013

The Tasmania Trip Report, Part Six

Trip Report Contents




Day One:  The Tasman Peninsula (Seascapes and fog)

Quick Summary:  About our drive down the fire-ravaged Tasman Peninsula, a visit to Port Arthur, and the crappiest lunch I can recall.

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Sunday morning we got up fairly early, had a quick breakfast at the hotel restaurant, and went to fetch the car.  The breakfast was very Australian in its offerings, with stewed prunes, boiled bacon, baked eggs, and other really fatty stuff.  And, of course, there was vegemite, the Australian staple.

Fetching the Car

By foot it was only about ten minutes to the car rental office.  Luckily we sorted things out at the airport the previous day to rent the car from downtown and return to the airport, for the same price.  This saved us the taxi fare out to the airport, and the time.  Before long we were on our way out of Hobart, on the left side of the road, headed toward the Tasman Peninsula.


Motoring on the left

Aftermath of the Fires

Our initial destination was the Port Arthur Historical Site, about 90 minutes from Hobart.  Our route took us first north and east, past the airport, and then south down the jagged strip of land.

Along the way we passed through several areas that had been burned by the intense summer 2012-13 wildfires.  Some of these areas were just small patches, while others were vast swathes and whole mountains.  We passed through towns that had been burned as well.  We also saw some pretty impressive seascapes, cliffs, and other interesting things.



Burnt landscape

Burnt landscape

Me, with a foggy seascape behind


Theme of the day:  water and fog

Boats in the water, with burned hillsides in the background

Beautiful seacliffs, shrouded in fog

Seacliffs and fog

Fog and water

Philip with fog and the sea at his back

Tessellated Pavement is natural stone that has been subjected to the pounding waves

Tessellated pavement

At the water

Tessellated Pavement

Fire damage:  destroyed houses and burned hillsides

More fire damage


The Crappiest Lunch … Ever.  Ever.

We eventually got to Port Arthur and went in for tickets.  Part of the visit is a boat ride out into the harbor.  Spaces on the boat are timed and ours was not for another two-plus hours.  We hadn’t eaten lunch, so we looked into eat at the on-site café.  The line was so long and the seating area so full that we decided to get back into the car and head to one of the places we saw on the way in.  (Spoiler alert:   this was a very bad idea.)

The first place we went to did not serve lunch and was closed.  We ended up at a place called the Eucalypt for what was the worst meal I could recall having.  It was terrible!  Philip ordered fish and chips, which really turned out to be little more than frozen fish.  I had a burger, which had clearly been microwaved.  It was all disgusting and not edible.  And, it cost almost $40!


At Port Arthur

Back at the historical site, we scouted around the grounds a bit before our sailing time.  The settlement at Port Arthur was essentially a colonial-era prison camp, using prison labor to extract natural resources.  More recently, in 1996, it was the sight of a mass-shooting, which spurred Australia toward very strict gun control.


Welcome to Port Arthur

Port Arthur ruins

Port Arthur ruins

Port Arthur ruins

Port Arthur ruins

Boats in Mason Cove

Mason Cove

Big aloe plant

Port Arthur ruins

Port Arthur ruins

Port Arthur ruins

Port Arthur, looking out at Mason Cove

Port Arthur ruins



On the boat, we basically made a sweep of the harbor that lasted about half an hour.  A narrator pointed out sights, gave historical perspective, and discussed the area.  The weather wasn’t very cooperative at all!


On Mason Cove, sailing from Port Arthur

Sailing Mason Cove

Mason Cove, looking out at the entrance to the Southern Ocean

Mason Cove seacliffs

Sailing Mason Cove


After the boat we saw the rest of the historical site.

Fountain

Flowers

Port Arthur ruins

Tree, framed by the ruins

Port Arthur ruins

Port Arthur ruins

Tree-lined lane

Tasmanian sheep

Beautiful trees

Tasmanian pasture, on the Port Arthur site


Idyllic scene of flowers and ruins


Seeing the Seascape

Leaving the historical site we stopped at several of the geographical interests on the peninsula.  The scenery was spectacular and the geographical oddities were so interesting.

Seascape

Seascape

Seascape

Seacliffs

Seascape

Seascape

Me, with ocean and seacliffs over my shoulder

I loved these jagged cliffs.  We saw them all over the coasts


This is a tunnel through to the ocean.  The waves burrowed through the cliffside over many, many years

The Tasman Arch.  This is another example of how the ocean burrowed through the rock


The Tasman Arch


The Tasman Arch

Seascape

Seascape

Seascape

Rocks and cliffs in the sea

Same scene, with greater zoom

More detail, with the cliffs and rocks in even greater detail

This is called the Blowhole, another instance where the ocean has burrowed through the cliffside

The Blowhole

The Blowhole


Back to Town

By this point the daylight was waning and we were keen to get back into Hobart before it became dark.  Some signs we came across on the drive back:

We didn't see any that day, but we did a couple of days later

This must be a generic sign that also applies to wallabies, because there aren't native kangaroos on Tasmania

Okay, okay, I won't go 100, especially if it's going to get blood (or red paint) on my shoes

Barely captured this sign, but it's a warning that wombats are in the area and not to hit them

We stopped at a supermarket and found ourselves back at the hotel by about seven o’clock.  For dinner that night we settled on an Indian place we’d seen the night before and soon after retired for the night.





12 April 2013

The Tasmania Trip Report, Part Five


Trip Report Contents



Arrival Day (Hello, Hobart, nice to meet you)

Quick Summary:  Our arrival day into Tasmania, from the city market to a special birthday dinner.

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Arriving Into Hobart

The landing into Hobart was smooth and we used up all of the short runway at Hobart International.  There was work being done to the taxiway, so we made a U-turn at the end of the runway and taxied halfway back up the runway and turned to pull up near the tiny terminal.  We deplaned down a set of stairs at the forward part of the cabin, while another set was used at the rear of the aircraft.

We filed into the terminal building, past a dog stationed to sniff for fruit and vegetables, which are not allowed to be brought onto the island.  Soon enough our bags popped out and we headed out of the building.

We originally planned to get the car the day after we arrived, mainly because I didn’t know how we’d feel and because driving on the left side of the road tired is not a good idea.  As it turns out, we felt fine and wanted to get the car then and there, but they had none available.  The stop wasn’t totally wasted, though, as we managed to change our booking from the airport to the office in the city center, saving us another taxi fare and some time.

Back at the taxi queue, we loaded our bags in, loaded ourselves in, and set out for the hotel.

The ride was across very rural countryside on a nearly-deserted freeway.  Within about twenty minutes we were at the hotel.  We checked in, dropped our stuff in the room, and immediately headed out to the Salamanca Market, as we had only a couple of hours before it would close.


Our hotel


View from our room



View from our room


View from our room


View from our room.  Only day of sunshine in Hobart


Visiting the Salamanca Market

Just as we got to the market the cloudy skies that had greeted us at the airport began to drop a little rain.  It was by no means a downpour but it was annoying enough that a relaxing visit to the market wasn’t really possible.

We did our best to make it through the market and did see most of it.  It reminded me lots of such markets I’d seen in other places, from Cape Town to Bogotá to Vancouver to Saint John.  There were some local products, some crafts, some kitsch, some this, some that.  There was a cruise ship in port, so the place was really crowded with day-trippers.


At the market

At the market

At the market


Getting Aquainted With Hobart

From the market we set out and strolled around Hobart.  The pace of the rain picked up and we eventually ducked into a shop for an umbrella.  We bought our roadmap for the trip.  We walked into some shops, strolled through some parks, and just tried to get a sense of the place.  It reminded me a good bit of some of the smaller Canadian cities I’ve been to, like Saint John or a much smaller version of Halifax.


Saint David's Park

Saint David's Park

Saint David's Park

Mt Wellington

Downtown Hobart


Downtown Hobart


Fountain


Park


Park


Fountain


Fountain

Our First Brush With Australia’s Prices

As the afternoon began to wane, we decided we’d duck in somewhere for a beer to regroup before heading back to the hotel to freshen up for dinner.  It was then that we got our first reality check of what the prices would be like:  $18 for two draft beers at a hole-in-the-wall pub.  Wow.


Expensive--but delicious--beers


One of the excellent Tasmanian beers

  
The Birthday Dinner

Sunday was Philip’s birthday, but, the restaurant we wanted to go to being closed Sunday and a suitable replacement illusive, we decided to celebrate Saturday night.  The restaurant was about a mile or so north of the hotel, in North Hobart.  We walked there, almost regretting it partway through, but we made it in time for our reservation.

We came to know about the restaurant, called Solicit, through a colleague I had at work.  My colleague had met the owners on a vacation and they’d kept in touch.  She put me in touch with them and we traded emails.  I would not have gone to eat there just because of that connection, but it certainly led me to the idea; and, so glad it did!  We had an excellent meal, one that was certainly the best of our entire trip.  (Find the review here.)


Me poring over the menu

We started out with a sort-of appetizer sampler, including local oysters, and bites of different things.  Delicious.  For the main course Philip had pork, which was done to perfection; I had wallaby, which, I have to admit, I got just because there’s no other place I could imagine getting such a dish except Australia.  My curiosity was well-rewarded, as it was delicious.  The Tasmanian Pinot Noir recommended was quite good.  An excellent meal and a wonderful experience.


Our shared starter, pretty much a sampling of several things, all of them excellent (except the oysters:  I really don't like raw oysters, even though I keep trying to!)

Philip, looking forward to the main course


Philip's pork dish

Wallaby, which tasted really good and was done to perfection, part of our best meal of our whole trip

After dinner we got a taxi back to the hotel, unwound a little, and turned in for the night.